Circuit

This is the schematics for a PIC USB gamepad that I have built in a steering wheel shell. The code for the firmware was written in PicBasic Pro and it implements a HID USB device with 2 axes and 4 buttons (only 2 buttons connected in the prototype). The device is detected by Windows XP/Vista as a standard USB gamepad and can be used with many games and applications.

I am using a 2 Axes Buffered ±2g Accelerometer from DIMENSION ENGINEERING, it has a built in voltage regulator that allows powering the accelerometer dirrectly from the USB bus (5V):

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/DE-ACCM2G.htm

I highly recommend this accelerometer as well as other great Dimension Engineering products, check out their website: www.dimensionengineering.com !

Note: Optionally you can connect 2 more buttons to RB2 and RB3.

Code

Below is the PIC Basic code that works both on 18F4550 / 18F2550. (There are other requirements to build USB firmware including the HID header, see compiler documentation).

DOWNLOAD HEX FILE FOR PIC 18F2550 (You will need a PIC Programmer to transfer it to the chip, I’m using PICKit2):

18F2550_Gamepad.hex

IMPORTANT NOTE: Please disconnect any Microchip Devices (including the PICKit2 programmer) before plugging this device since it’s using same HID VENDOR /PRODUCT ID provided in Microchip sample files.
If you plug 2 devices with same VENDOR/PRODUCT ID you might get a hardware conflict and the devices might not work.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
<span>Define  OSC     48
'CONFIGURATIONS ARE IN /PBP/18F2550.INC , YOU MIGHT WANT TO EDIT THEM</span>

'ADC
DEFINE ADC_BITS 10         ' Set number of bits in result
DEFINE ADC_CLOCK 6        ' Set clock source  Fosc/64  => TAD => 1.34uS
DEFINE ADC_SAMPLEUS 50     ' Set sampling time in uS

TRISA.0 = 1
TRISA.1 = 1

ADCON1 = %00001101 ' sets AN0,AN1 to analog mode

ADCON2 = %10101110 '
'bit 0-2: ADCS ,OVERWRITTEN BY ADC_CLOCK,  110: Fosc/64  => TAD => 1.34uS
'bit 3-5: Aquisition time: 101: 12 TAD =>  16uS
'bit 6: not used
'bit 7: Right justify for 10-bit

x    VAR    WORD
y    VAR Word

INTCON2.7=0  'RBPU =0 , TURN ON PORTB PULL-UPS

bt1            VAR PORTB.0
TRISB.0 = 1
bt2            VAR PORTB.1
TRISB.1 = 1
bt3            VAR PORTB.2
TRISB.2 = 1
bt4            VAR PORTB.3
TRISB.3 = 1

'USB
buffer    Var    Byte[3]
USBInit

main:
ADCIN 0,x    'read AN0
ADCIN 1,y    'read AN1

'x,y experimental measurments: ~512 @center / ~365 @ -90deg / -655 @ +90deg

x = (x >> 2) << 2  ' clear last 2 bits
y = (y >> 2) << 2  ' clear last 2 bits

'convert x,y from range [384..512..639] to [0..128..255] with edge clipping
x = ((x MAX 384) MIN 639 ) - 384
y = ((y MAX 384) MIN 639 ) - 384

buffer[0] = y    'gamepad's x-axis is accelerometer's y axis
buffer[1] = x    'gamepad's y-axis is accelerometer's x axis
buffer[2] = PORTB ^ %00001111 &    %00001111 'separate and reverse first 4 bits

USBService    ' Must service USB regularly
USBOut 1, buffer, 3, main  ' Send buffer to endpoint 1

GOTO main    ' Do it forever

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is how it is detected by Windows XP. Please note that if you don’t change the USB HID Vendor ID and Product ID code this device might conflict with other microchip HID devices using same indentification, including the PICKIT II USB programmer (you can’t have them plugged in both at the same time).

There’s no need to calibrate the device on this Windows screen,  since it will output values within 0..255 range for both axis and it will be centered close to  128,128 values (we took care of this in the program).

However you might want to adjust sensitivity in your game, based on your preference:

Construction

If using an existing USB cable , the wire coding is VDD red, VSS black , D+ green , D- white.

Second prototype using PIC18F2550 chip.in a cheap Wii steering wheel shell. (Look for them on EBay they sell for about $1.45).

First prototype “THE BRICK” , using PIC18F4550 chip, accelerometer removed.

It can work as a motion MOUSE too !

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project using an arduino, a motor, and a piezo sensor which allows you to both record and detect knocking patterns to unlock a door.  The video below does a fantastic job of demonstrating how it works: It’s completely mobile and can be suction cupped to any dead bolt. Press a button to record a new sequence.  Upon detecting the correct sequence of knocks, the motor turns the lock open.

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The device was created by Everett Bradford. “Prometheus Device” is a hand-mounted appliance that shoots, like, real fire. Coolest part is that you can make your own.

Links:

Pictures

videos

make

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You can charge your i-pod with this battery powered USB chargers. It is easy to make. From anythingbutipod.com Andreas Degard has explained step by step how we make this.

This article shows you how to make a USB charger that is confirmed working on a range of devices.

Or you can always just buy a Duracell Instant Charger for not much more

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It weighs 17 gramms, is driven by two pager motors, powered by a small lipo cell and controlled by an 8-pin ATtiny25V.  Pretty isn’t it? After reading this post you can build this amazing robot on your own. First, i want to explain what exactly braitenberg robot is?

Braitenberg vehicle : A Braitenberg vehicle is an agent that can autonomously move around. It has primitive sensors (measuring some stimulus at a point) and wheels (each driven by its own motor) that function as actuators or effectors. A sensor, on its simpler form, is directly connected to an effector, so that a sensed signal immediately produces a movement of the wheel. Depending on how sensors and wheels are connected, the vehicle exhibits different behaviors (which can be goal-oriented). This means that it appears to strive to achieve certain situations and to avoid others, changing course when the situation changes.^[1]

Schematic and parts

This tiny robot has a very low component count. At least for a robot, based on a microcontroller. That has, of course, some implications. It can handle only two sensors and the motors run only in one direction. A full H-bridge for both motors would need 8 transistors and more lines to control it.

So I decided to just use a single transistor to drive the motor. That means it can only run forward. Not a big deal for a Braitenberg vehicle.

Here is the parts list. Most parts are very common.

• ATtiny25V, 2 kB flash RAM, ATTINY25V-10PU-ND
• MPC1700 3.3 voltage regulator, MCP1700-3302E/TO-ND
• 2 * light dependent resistors (LDR)
• 2 * 10 kOhm resistor
• 2 * 470 Ohm resistor
• 2 * 2n3904 transistor
• 2 * 1n4148 diode
• 100n capacitor
• 100u capacitor
• Lithium-polymer battery, 3.7 V, 100mAh, HobbyCity
• 2 * fuse holder
• 2 * pager motor
• heat shrink tubes
• rubber tube
• custom PCB
• 6-pin ISP header

A bit tricky was to find the right rubber tube to build the wheels. I found these, which are normally used to connect tiny motors to a model stern tube. Because the inner diameter is a bit to wide, I used short pieces of cable isolation as an adaptor.

If you have pager motors with an attached weight on their shaft, you may want to take a look at the RobotRoom for instruction on how to get rid of the weights. I had no locking pliers, maybe that’s the reason why I ruined at least three motors. Mostly by twisting the shaft while trying to pull off the weight.

Software and programming

The software is straigt forward. Reading two inputs, the light sensors, and driving two ouput lines accordingly with a PWM signal.

But it turns out, that the software needs a lot of adjustments. First you have to figure out in what range the light sensors report values. Next, check at what PWM level the robot starts to move. Maybe even adjust the directional stability.

Programming the robot in circuit via the 6-pin ISP header didn’t work out in the first place. The programmer was not able to set the lines to high that were driving the transistors. So I soldered a socket in place and can now pull off the two 470 Ohm resistors. After programming I can re-insert the resistors. Can be seen on the left critter on the picture above. A bit awkward, but it works.

Demo

You should have a very clean surface for them to run on. If you put them on a table, as I did, be sure to have very good reflexes or put a kind of fence around them. Mine dropped off the table a couple of times. Mostly no dramatic damage, but the sensors got twistet and the motors sprung out of their holders.

Depending on the ambient light, the light source itself and the nature of the surface you may have to adjust the light sensors. As an example, if the surface is white and diffuses the light, then you would have to bend the sensors away from the surface, because the surface looks bright, even if the robot turns away from the light source.

Issues and conclusion

There are still a couple of issues to resolve.

• Software improvements, use ADC in free running mode and use hardware PWM to drive the motors
• Place the skid in the middle of the PCB.
• There is no protection of deep discharging the battery, no idea how to solve this.
• Add a small power switch.

Someone wanting to volunteer for some private beta testing and helping with improvements?

Besides these issues, these two critters are fun. There was a lot of testing, reprogramming and re-adjustment needed, to get them doing, what I thought they should do. But hey, that’s the way to learn something.

Links and downloads

• Braitenberg vehicle with Arduino mini
• Arduino powered Braitenberg vehicle
• Formica, swarm bots

/* -----------------------------------------------------------------------
 * Title:    tiny braitenberg
 * Author:   Alexander Weber <alex@tinkerlog.com>
 *           http://tinkerlog.com
 * Date:     24.07.2009
 * Hardware: ATtiny25v, ATtiny45 or 85 will work as well.
 *
 * If using a lipo-cell, never get under 2.5 V.
 */

#include <avr/io.h>
#include <avr/interrupt.h>
#include <util/delay.h>
#include <stdlib.h>

#define min(a,b) ((a)<(b)?(a):(b))
#define max(a,b) ((a)>(b)?(a):(b))

#define LED_BIT PB0
#define LEFT_MOTOR_BIT PB1
#define RIGHT_MOTOR_BIT PB2
#define LEFT_SENSOR_BIT PB3
#define RIGHT_SENSOR_BIT PB4

#define LEFT_OFFSET 10
#define RIGHT_OFFSET 0

static int16_t left_sensor = 0;
static int16_t right_sensor = 0;
static volatile uint8_t left_motor = 0;
static volatile uint8_t right_motor = 0;
static volatile uint8_t act_left_motor = 0;
static volatile uint8_t act_right_motor = 0;
static uint8_t count = 0;

/* -----------------------------------------------------
 * ADC interrupt
 * TODO: use ADC in free running mode
 */
SIGNAL(ADC_vect) {
 // act_light = ADCH;        // read only 8-bit
}

/* -----------------------------------------------------
 * Timer0 overflow interrupt
 * F_CPU 8.000.000 Hz
 * -> prescaler 0, overrun 256 -> 31.250 Hz
 * -> 256 steps -> 122 Hz
 *
 */
SIGNAL(TIM0_OVF_vect) {
 // every 256th step take over new values
 if (++count == 0) {
 act_left_motor = left_motor + LEFT_OFFSET;
 act_right_motor = right_motor + RIGHT_OFFSET;
 if (act_left_motor > 40) {
 PORTB |= (1 << LEFT_MOTOR_BIT);
 }
 if (act_right_motor > 40) {
 PORTB |= (1 << RIGHT_MOTOR_BIT);
 }
 }
 if (count == act_left_motor) {
 PORTB &= ~(1 << LEFT_MOTOR_BIT);
 }
 if (count == act_right_motor) {
 PORTB &= ~(1 << RIGHT_MOTOR_BIT);
 }
}

/*
 * get_adc
 * Return the 8 bit value of the selected adc channel.
 */
uint16_t get_adc(uint8_t channel) {

 // ADC setup
 ADCSRA =
 (1 << ADEN) |                   // enable ADC
 (1 << ADPS1) | (1 << ADPS0);    // set prescaler to 8

 // select channel
 ADMUX = channel;

 // select reference voltage
 // ADMUX |= (1 << REFS0);       // use internal reference

 // warm up the ADC, discard the first conversion
 ADCSRA |= (1 << ADSC);
 while (ADCSRA & (1 << ADSC));

 ADCSRA |= (1 << ADSC);           // start single conversion
 while (ADCSRA & (1 << ADSC));    // wait until conversion is done

 return ADCW;
}

uint16_t scale_down(uint16_t v) {
 v = max(300, v);
 v -= 300;
 // v /= 6;
 v >>= 2;
 v = min(120, v);
 return v;
}

int main(void) {

 uint8_t i = 0;

 // eneable pins as output
 DDRB |=
 (1 << LED_BIT) |
 (1 << LEFT_MOTOR_BIT) |
 (1 << RIGHT_MOTOR_BIT);

 // timer 0 setup, prescaler none
 TCCR0B |= (0 << CS02) | (0 << CS01) | (1 << CS00);

 // enable timer 0 interrupt
 TIMSK |= (1 << TOIE0);
 // TIMSK0 |= (1 << TOIE0);

 // enable all interrupts
 sei();

 // intro, blink red
 for (i = 0; i < 5; i++) {
 PORTB |= (1 << LED_BIT);
 _delay_ms(100);
 PORTB &= ~(1 << LED_BIT);
 _delay_ms(100);
 }

 _delay_ms(5000);

 while (1) {

 /* motor starts with 5
 for (i = 0; i < 15; i++) {
 right_motor = i * 10;
 left_motor = i * 10;
 _delay_ms(5000);
 right_motor = 0;
 left_motor = 0;
 PORTB |= (1 << LED_BIT);
 _delay_ms(500);
 PORTB &= ~(1 << LED_BIT);
 }
 */

 // sensor reads from ~100 to 800
 left_sensor = get_adc(2);
 right_sensor = get_adc(3);

 // scale down
 left_sensor = scale_down(left_sensor);
 right_sensor = scale_down(right_sensor);

 // give some visual feedback
 if (abs(left_sensor - right_sensor) < 10) {
 PORTB |= (1 << LED_BIT);
 }
 else {
 PORTB &= ~(1 << LED_BIT);
 }

 // aggression
 right_motor = left_sensor;
 left_motor = right_sensor;

 // love
 // right_motor = 120 - right_sensor;
 // left_motor = 120 - left_sensor;

 // fear
 // right_motor = right_sensor;
 // left_motor = left_sensor;

 _delay_ms(10);

 }

 return 0;}

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Drawdio is a pencil that lets you draw music. Imagine you could draw musical instruments on normal paper with any pencil (cheap circuit thumb-tacked on) and then play them with your finger. The Drawdio circuit-craft lets you MacGuyver your everyday objects into musical instruments: paintbrushes, macaroni, trees, grandpa, even the kitchen sink…

Drawdio on Veroboard from Dylski on Vimeo.

Click on the images for larger versions.

The upper diagram in the photo below shows the track cuts that you need to made on a 29×5 piece of Veroboard. It’s an underside view – note the letters on the left and see how they correspond to the diagram beneath the circuit board. The lower diagram shows the component layout and how they wire into the tracks on the underside.

The components fitted. Note that for Q1 I used an 8050 NPN transistor and for Q2 I used a 8550 PNP transistor. Special thanks to Dave for picking out the parts I needed!

I could not source any copy foil so used the core of some mains cable…

The completed Drawdio.

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BASİT HOPARLÖR

Emaye kaplı bakır tel, mıknatıs ve plastik tabak kullanarak basit hoparlör yapımı.

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Resimler ve videolar

Hoparlörün dış görünümü 1 2 3

Video görüntüleri 1 2

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ELEKTRONİK SAAT VE TAKVİM

PIC16F628 mikro denetleyici ve DS1302 entegresi kullanarak elektronik saat ve takvim devresi yapımı.

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Elektronik devre

5V’luk regülatör devresi

PIC programlama için gerekli dosyalar

C kodu YENİ Hex kodu YENİ (Saatin çalışmamasına neden olan CH biti sorunu düzeltildi)

Kütüphane dosyası (PIC C derleyicisindeki include klasörüne kopyalanmalı)

PCB dosyaları

Lehim yüzeyi

Eleman yerleşim planı

Malzeme listesi

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Resimler

Monte edilmiş halde PCB

Devrenin çalışır durumdaki resimleri 1 ve 2

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DS1302 entegresi

Uygulama notu 1 ve 2

LM7805 gerilim regülatörü

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POWER LED SÜRÜCÜ

Power LED’lerin kullanımı hakkında bilgiler ve MC34063A entegresi ile sürücü devre tasarımı.

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30 lümen power LED

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ELEKTRONİK ORG

555 entegresi ve birkaç adet elektronik malzeme ile org yapımı.

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Butonlara basarak org çalma

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Malzeme listesi

Monte edilmiş kartın üst ve alt görünüşü

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